Yesterday, January 13, 2012, Aerolineas Argentinas flight 1682 landed at the Bariloche Airport at 1:45 pm. Hours later, at 5:58 pm, LAN flight 4346 also landed at the Bariloche Airport. As reported in our previous post, LAN had announced that they would be resuming daily flights between Buenos Aires and Bariloche. Hours after this news got out, Aerolineas Argentinas announced that they too would be resuming flights to Bariloche. This is the first time either airline, or any major carrier for that matter, has landed in Bariloche since last June. Due to volcanic ash complications following the eruption of the Puyehue Volcano, the Bariloche Airport had been closed for the past 7 months. After the completion of a major renovation project this past Christmas, as reported in one of our previous posts, the Bariloche Airport announced that they were ready to begin receiving flights once again. It took several weeks for Argentina’s two major airlines to respond, but the day has come at last.
The new Governor of the Río Negro province, Alberto Weretilneck, also announced that Argentina’s Ministry of National Defense will be installing new volcanic ash sensing technology at the end of the month, in an effort to avoid future problems. We are overjoyed with this news, and we wish everyone flying to Bariloche a safe flight and a great trip, Buen viaje!
We have some wonderful news to share with you all! LAN has just announced that they will be resuming flights to Bariloche, starting tomorrow, January 13, 2012. Daily flights from Buenos Aires to San Carlos de Bariloche will resume tomorrow. This is the best news to come to the region in recent months, since the closure of the Bariloche Airport due to volcanic ash complications resulting from the eruption of the Puyehue Volcano last June. The Bariloche Airport has since been renovated, as reported in one of our previous posts, and was reopened this past Christmas. LAN will be the first major airline to resume flights to the newly renovated airport.
While the southern hemisphere enjoys its summer months, the guides at PatagoniaSkiTours.com are currently working in the winter of Utah in the United States. As you may have already heard, the ski season is off to a slow start in Utah. On the heels of a record low December snow cycle, the Wasatch Range is currently experiencing lower than average snow coverage. As a result, most of the ski resorts have not yet opened all of their terrain, and the heliski season is temporarily on hold until they get more coverage. Such is the life of a skier. We are at the mercy of the weather (or lack thereof).
Sean has been hard at work at Snowbird, keeping the mountain safe in these sketchy conditions. In lieu of guiding heliskiing, Justin and the rest of the Wasatch Powderbird Guides have been busy building out their new second location at Canyons Resort in Park City. Powderbird is hoping to have operations in full swing by the end of January. Guests are encouraged to make reservations for February & March – discounted seats are still available in March. Check out their pages to get the latest updates: Powderbird.com Dispatches, Powderbird Blog, Facebook, Twitter. If you can’t make it to Utah to heliski with Powderbird in the Wasatch this winter, you can still join them for heliskiing in one of their international locations: Greenland, Argentina, Chile, and Japan. Check out our Heliskiing page for more information about Powderbird International’s Argentina Heliski programs.
Heliskiing in Patagonia
We have received an overwhelming amount of e-mails regarding the current status of the Bariloche Airport. The renovations reported in our previous post were completed according to plan, and the airport reopened as scheduled. However, airlines are dragging their feet on resuming flights to the area. At the moment, neither LAN nor Aerolineas Argentinas have scheduled flights to Bariloche. Aerolineas Argentinas has listed that they are planning to resume flights to Bariloche after January 31, 2012. The only current flight options are to fly to either Esquel or San Martin de Los Andes and take a shuttle bus into Bariloche. We have an excellent first-person account of the trip from one of our guests in a previous posts – click to read. We do know of a few small airlines that have been flying into Bariloche, but none of the major carriers seem to be in a rush to reinstate their segments to the area. Just as we can only wait for the snow in Utah, we must wait and see when the major airlines will return to Bariloche.
We will continue to do our best to keep you all informed and up to date on both the status of the Utah ski season and the status of the Bariloche Airport. Until then, we wait.
Please view our latest post for updated information on the status of the Bariloche Airport
As stated in one of our previous posts, the Bariloche Airport is currently closed while undergoing major renovations of the runways, gates, and beacon systems. The project was started on Monday, October 24, and was scheduled to last for a period of 60 days, making the estimated date of completion Christmas Eve 2011, December 24. At the moment, over 50% of the work has been completed, indicating that the renovations will be finished by the quickly approaching completion date of December 20.
Río Negro Senator, Miguel Ángel Pichetto, is working on having Argentina President, Cristina Fernández Kirchner, present for the reopening of the Bariloche International Airport on December 20.
We have a real-time countdown clock on the right-hand side of our website for the reopening of the airport to keep you up to date.
Imagine boarding a train in Buenos Aires, crossing the pampas to the Atlantic coast, then venturing west over the Patagonian Steppe and waking up in Bariloche! This will soon be a reality, thanks to a recent deal struck by two Argentine rail companies, Ferrobaires and Tren Patagonico.
The route, leaving from Estación Constitución in downtown Buenos Aires, passing through Bahía Blanca to the historic gateway of Patagonia, the twin cities of Viedma and Carmen de Patagones, had been previously interrupted in recent years, due to the large accumulation of sand on the rail segment between Bahía Blanca and Viedma. This region’s sandy soil, lack of rainfall, and strong winds have left the rails completely covered with sand, rendering them useless since some time at the beginning of last year.
This new deal, between the Buenos Aires government-owned Ferrobaires and the Río Negro-based Tren Patagonico company, states that the two entities will work together to maintain this stretch of track operable, linking their two rail networks. Ferrobaires runs rail lines all across the province of Buenos Aires, including lines down to Bahía Blanca. Tren Patagonico runs one main line across the province of Río Negro, from the Atlantic coast of the capital city, Viedma, to the Andes mountains of San Carlos de Bariloche. Recently, Tren Patagonico also revived several antique steam engines to make the trip down to Esquel from Jacobacci on the old narrow-gauge rail, ‘La Trochita’.
Apparently, the Tren Patagonico, from Viedma to Bariloche, takes about 14 hours. Featuring a dining car, cinema car, and even a dance club car, this would be a very comfortable, fun and scenic ride. They also offer several different classes of seats for the trip: the basic ‘Turista’ fare, about $75 ARS/$18 USD; the upgrade to First Class, about $100 ARS/$24 USD; the ‘Pullman’, offering the most comfortable seat option, about $155 ARS/$37 USD; or the ‘Camarote’ option, featuring a private room with two beds, large storage space, and a table, about $304 ARS/$74 USD. These are prices per person for non-residents. Residents of the Río Negro province receive a discount on all fares. (Unconfirmed prices from last year at old 4.1 exchange rate)
There are a couple of options for getting to Viedma, now that the section between Bahía Blanca and Viedma will be operable. Taking the train from Estación Constitución in Buenos Aires to Bahía Blanca takes about 14 hours and costs about $58-95 ARS/$13-21 USD, depending on the seat class (Turista-Pullman, no Camarote). So far, we have not been able to find any information about the cost or duration of the ride between Bahía Blanca and Viedma. We are hoping that some kind of Ski Express Train service, from Buenos Aires to Bariloche, will eventually be enacted, allowing for a faster, more comfortable ride. Ideally, this service would offer the traveler the option to have their own room for the whole trip and would also feature all of the extras of the Tren Patagonico (dining car, cinema car and dance club car), all at a single, affordable price.
We have been thinking about taking the Tren Patagonico to Bariloche next year to kick off our 2012 ski season. Since our dream Ski Train does not yet exist, we would take a bus from Buenos Aires to Viedma, a 13-hour ride for about $440 ARS/$98 USD for the Cama Ejecutiva class. We would board the bus at the Retiro station on Thursday night and arrive in Viedma Friday morning. After spending the day enjoying the beauty and history of Viedma and Carmen de Patagones, we would board the Friday night train to Bariloche and wake up in the mountains of Patagonia on Saturday morning. This trip would ultimately cost about the same as just taking the bus straight to Bariloche (about $770 ARS/$170 USD) and take about 12 hours longer, but we feel it would be more than worth it for the adventure of it all.
July 3, 2012 Update: We have just spoken with a Tren Patagonico representative and have been informed that the Tren Patagonico service is not currently operational. They are running an alternative rail service from Viedma to Bariloche, utilizing a Spanish GM 319 Locomotive equipped with Portuguese Sorefame cars. This rail service is a basic passenger train with coach-style seating, no private rooms, and it does NOT feature the amenities of Tren Patagonico: dining car, cinema car, etc. The status, schedule and rates for this train can be found in the link above.
With winter knocking on the door in the northern hemisphere, it’s time to start thinking about snow safety. We recently came across a couple of good videos illustrating the horror of triggering an avalanche in the backcountry, highlighting the importance of snow safety knowledge.
Dan was rescued by his crew of competent partners through the use of standard snow safety equipment: avalanche transceiver (beacon), shovel, and probe.
Swiss Freerider Avalanche:
In this case, the Swiss Freerider eluded the avalanche by escaping off to the skier’s right flank of the slide path, after being warned by his partner.
Both of these videos show how quickly and unexpectedly an avalanche can break out around you. Once this occurs, the only thing that will save you is the knowledge, preparation and training of both you and your partners. Attend an avalanche or snow safety course in your area. Avalanche.org is an excellent source for finding courses available in your area, and they also feature an online tutorial. It is also extremely important to ‘Know Before You Go’ – Before venturing into the backcountry, be sure to check your local Avalanche Forecast. Visit Avalanche.org for links to your local Avalanche Center. Bookmark them, and check them daily.
For those of you in the Salt Lake City area, check out these upcoming events and courses:
We will be offering our Snow Safety Clinics and Snow Study Workshops during the upcoming 2012 ski season in Patagonia. Both of these are included in our Backcountry Tour – we are working on creating a one-week version of this tour and also links to sign up for just the Snow Safety Clinic and/or Snow Study Workshop. Check back soon for updates!
Please view our latest post for updated information on the status of the Bariloche Airport
Starting Monday, October 24, the Bariloche International Airport (BRC) will be closed for a period of 60 days for several repairs and improvements. The 60 million peso project is to include renovation of the runways, gates, and beacon systems. The work will be managed by the group Aeropuertos Argentina 2000 and will bring the airport up to the level of ‘Category A’, making it one of the most modern airports in the country of Argentina. Fernando Jantus de Estrada, the General Director of the Administración Nacional de Aviación Civil (ANAC) in Argentina reported that, in their current state, the runways at the Bariloche Airport would not last another year. For this reason, it has been decided that the repairs to the runway are absolutely necessary and must occur during the summer months.
Naturally, the idea of having the airport closed for two months has many local businesses and residents worried. The completion date has been guaranteed by Christmas 2011, and the ANAC has advised Aeropuertos Argentina 2000 that if the project is not completed by this date, they will be hit with major fines.
For tourists and other travelers visiting the region during this time, flights will be available into the nearby town of Esquel and will include a shuttle up to Bariloche -about a 4 hour drive. Click here to check out a previous post for a first hand account of this trip by one of our guests.
Sadly, the 2011 ski season in South America has come to an end. A few ski resorts are still open, including Cerro Catedral, La Hoya, and Cerro Castor. They will all be closing after this weekend, on October 10th. Now is your last chance to ski in Argentina this year!
It was both a challenging and rewarding ski season for all of us. We have returned to Salt Lake City, Utah, to prepare for the upcoming ski season in the Wasatch Range. Justin will be guiding heliskiing with Wasatch Powderbird Guides, and Sean will be ski patrolling at Snowbird Ski & Summer Resort. We have just started receiving our first real snow storms of the winter. It’s snowing up in the Cottonwood Canyons at the moment, and they are looking to receive one to two feet (30-60 cm) up there between now and Saturday. Here’s hoping!
Check out the latest photo of the patrol shack on top of Snowbird:
After completing our 2011 ski season down in Patagonia, we returned to Argentina’s captivating capitol, Buenos Aires, to continue the adventure. This bustling metropolis of 11 million plus boasts all kinds of culture and entertainment, from afternoon strolls through the beautiful plazas and enjoying fine cuisine, to tango shows and late night fiestas. We always advise our guests to be sure to spend some time in Buenos Aires. No matter how long your stay is, it will never seem like enough, since this city has so much to offer.
Our latest Buenos Aires City Tour focused on two main areas: tango culture in La Boca and the party scene in San Isidro, a large suburb on the northern outskirts of downtown Buenos Aires. The tour began in our home neighborhood of Recoleta, in the center of the city. We hopped the 152 bus down to La Boca, and headed straight into the heart of tango culture, Caminito. We found ourselves, once again, taken away by the romance and passion of the sights and sounds, the dancing and the music of the tango. Born on the very cobblestone streets we walked, the essence of the tango could be felt all around us as we continued through Caminito.
We decided to stop for a quick lunch at our favorite spot in La Boca, El Paraiso. We ordered up a round of lomito completo sandwiches (thin cut steak, ham, cheese, fried egg, lettuce & tomato) and some agua con gas (mineral water) to fuel the remainder of our day. We continued through the streets of La Boca, enjoying the local art and culture, before returning to the bus stop to take the 152 back to Recoleta. After roaming the area around Plaza Francia, digesting our meal and visiting some local shops to buy gifts and souvenirs, we headed home for a quick siesta before getting ready for the night’s festivities.
The destination for the night was a formerly secret party, not-so-secret anymore, located at the horse track in San Isidro. It is called Darwin. This event is known to host as many as 5,000 people, and it has been a weekly favorite of ours for years. Luckily for us, we gained VIP access and entered immediately, thanks to our local connections, avoiding us the hour wait in line. Before we knew it, we were in the crowd of young Porteños, dancing to the booming beats of world DJs. The scene is huge, with a lot going on, people moving all around, several bars scattered throughout the venue with lights flashing, music bumping and dancing… lots of dancing. When it gets to be too much, one needs to only step outside onto the grandstand of the horse track and enjoy the cool late night air and the quiet serenity of the track. As always, we had a great time at Darwin, and we then returned to the city center to finish the night with a late night meal. So ended another night in the ‘Paris of the Americas’, and we gave our last farewells to our departing guests.
Buenos Aires has so much to offer, and we only hope that you, like us, may one day find yourself captivated with its romance.
Please view our latest post for updated information on the status of the Bariloche Airport
At the moment, the Bariloche Airport is not yet operating normally. Aerolineas Argentinas and LAN have cancelled all flights to Bariloche until at least September 15. This will likely be extended until the end of the month. That does not mean that the area is inaccessible. Several options exist for reaching your vacation destination in Patagonia, including air travel.
Both Aerolineas Argentinas and LAN are offering a special flight to Esquel (Airport code: EQS) with a bus transfer up to Bariloche, a distance of 283 km/176 miles – about a 4 hour drive. There are also several overland options, including bus travel, from Buenos Aires. Our preferred carrier is Via Bariloche. Many of our guests and guides have been using this option for years now. As listed in a previous post, it can be quite a nice ride, if you’ve got the time. The Puyehue Volcano continues to erupt, but it did not pose a problem to our ski tours in August. Thanks to the recent arrival of the Santa Rosa storm, the snow is deep and white, and it’s a great time to be in Bariloche. Please view our previous posts for a detailed report of the skiing and snowboarding conditions we experienced during our ski tours in Patagonia this past August.
Below, we have a first person account of the flight + bus transfer option offered by LAN. Thank you to our friend, Jon, for offering this information.
“… I booked a round trip ticket on cheapoair.com flying LAN to Esquel at a cost of about $400 plus tax. This option includes a 4 1/2-hour bus ride to Bariloche Airport – closed because of the Volcano.
All domestic flights in Argentina depart from and arrive into Jorge Newberry airport (Aeroparque?). I stayed one night in the Palermo section of B.A. and had an early flight to Esquel the next morning. Transportation to the airport from the AWAA Suites and Spa cost about 40 pesos and took roughly 15 minutes. I cut things a little close as far as arrival time at the airport. It’s a little more hectic at the domestic airport compared to B.A.’s Intl airport… I’d suggest arriving 90 minutes before departure. Flight time to Esquel is about 130 minutes.
Esquel is a TINY airport, lacking the amenities and security infrastructure of other airports. However, they make it work. Upon arriving, you collect your bags and load onto buses for the scenic drive to Bariloche. Advice: try to wait to load your stuff on a bus until after everyone else has… the buses fill up quickly and if you wait, you can get on a 1/2-full bus. For me, there was only about 10 people on the bus I rode on, which allowed me to move around freely and take pics.
The buses stop in El Bolson for 30 minutes after about two hours of driving time. After the stop, it’s about 2 hours to Bariloche Airport. From Bariloche Airport to the center of Bariloche via Remises it’s about 25 Pesos and takes 15 minutes.To Hostel Alaska it’s about 80 pesos and takes 30 minutes.
For my return to the states, I had the MEGA travel day +6, as I reversed my journey to Bariloche over roughly 30 hours, including a 7-hour layover in B.A. I will not do this again if I can help it and recommend staying a night in B.A.
I had roughly 7 hours to burn before my flight to Houston after arriving in B.A. from Esquel… not enough time to do anything. First, I had to get from Jorge Newberry Airport to the intl airport. I chose the bus option… yes, another bus. It took about 70 minutes on the bus (like a charter), which was EMPTY and very comfortable, at a cost of 60 Pesos. Much cheaper than the taxi or private car option, which can cost upwards of 200 Pesos.
All together, my airfare ran about 1,100 plus tax. It can be tricky finding the flight to Esquel from B.A. after arriving at a different airport… that’s why I recommend a night’s stay in B.A. on both legs of the trip.”
— Jon K Rule
We will continue to keep you all updated on the status of the airports in Patagonia, including San Carlos de Bariloche and San Martin de Los Andes. As experts in the area, we can help with any and all travel and accommodation needs. Please feel free to contact us with any inquiries.
We were blessed with a wonderful bonus day at the end of our 2011 Backcountry Tour, offering us the chance to ski one last day at Cerro Catedral, before heading back to Buenos Aires. What a day it was!
We prepped our gear, watching the snow fall on our deck in Bariloche. We arose early and checked the latest report from Cerro Catedral: 40 cm of new snow! Following a quick breakfast, we loaded our gear into our driver’s remise and headed up to the mountain.
We arrived at Cerro Catedral just before opening and were greeted with beautiful white slopes all around us. We told Hugo, the driver, to meet us back at the parking lot at noon, so that we could get ready to catch our bus back to Buenos Aires at 3:00. We went straight to the Sextuple Express lift and were on one of the first chairs of the day.
As we neared the top, we noticed that the Nubes chair was not running. This was good news for us, as that is exactly where we had planned to go. We jumped onto the Punta Nevada quad, and headed toward the summit. After asking permission from ski patrol, we crossed the closure ropes and skinned up to the top of Punta Nevada (aka, ‘Nubes’). The morning views were absolutely incredible, with fresh white snow all around, beautiful blue skies above, and Lago Nahuel Huapi in the distance.
We were the first to reach the summit, but not by far. We noticed a few other people making their way up the peak, so we made haste. Our first run was right down the gut of the main face, marking our signatures on the pristine blankets of powder.
Needless to say, stoke levels were high, and we promptly returned to the Punta Nevada chair to make another lap. By this time, a few others had also skied the face, and a bootpack had been established. We followed the bootpack up to the summit once again and set our targets on the slightly lower-angled wide face near the Nubes lift line, as it was still untouched and ripe for the picking. This turned out to be an excellent choice. One at a time, we made high-speed GS turns all the way down the face, on perfectly spongy powder snow. We felt like condors soaring through the Andes, and wondered for a moment if we might take flight. This turned out to be the best run of the day… Zen.
We noted the time, 11:25, and figured we had just enough time to make one final lap. We charged up the bootpack once again, this time dropping in a bit earlier, skiing the steep chutes on the north end of the peak. By this time, there were several people on the face, so we rallied down the run, straightlining through the bottom section. It was good fun, as it always is to mach down a clean face of powder snow. We continued down the mountain, hitting powder stashes along the way, until we had reached the parking lot at noon. Hugo was waiting for us, so we loaded up immediately and returned to Bariloche.
We had just enough time for a quick lunch and a beer with our host, Javier, after we packed our ski bags. Hugo arrived right on time, at 2:00, and took us to the bus terminal to catch our 3:00 bus to Buenos Aires. We bid farewell to the town we love, as we watched it fade into the distance. Before we knew it, we were sipping wine on the bus, cruising across the Patagonian steppe, just as we had begun this adventure. Reclining in our Super Cama seats, sleep came easily, and we were in Buenos Aires by 10:00 the following morning. It was the perfect end to the perfect trip.
Mil gracias a todos que nos ayudaron y saludos a todos nuestros amigos en Patagonia! Nos vemos a la vuelta, el año que viene! Chau!
Want to see more pictures? Click here to view our Facebook photo album from our Bonus Day at Cerro Catedral.
We have just wrapped up our 2011 Backcountry Tour, after venturing south to Esquel and El Bolson. The 280 km/175 mile drive down to Esquel took us about three and a half hours in our new ride, a Volkswagen Amarok Turbo Diesel truck. Moments after arriving, we were skiing the huge alpine bowls of La Hoya. Conditions were variable, since the resort had been hammered by the infamous Patagonian wind. Most of the slopes in the upper elevation terrain were comprised of stout wind slabs and sastrugi, making the skiing rather challenging. Nonetheless, we were able to find the good wind-buffed snow in some protected couloirs on the leeward side of the cordillera. If it’s out there, we’ll find it. After the first day of skiing, we had developed a game plan for the next day and decided to spend the evening relaxing in town.
Our accommodations at Plaza Esquel were quite luxurious and our room had plenty of space for our mountain of gear. Settling into the mellow vibe of the town was easy, and we discovered a few great places to eat and drink. One thing is for sure of Argentina, the cuisine is as impressive as the natural surroundings. We dined on milanesas and hamburguesas completas, coupled with the quintessential Argentine beer, Quilmes Cristal. Now that we had replenished the thousands of calories we burned during the day, we headed back to the hotel to relax in the spa. Our weary bodies had taken a beating on this journey and it felt great to just chill out and reflect on the trip thus far.
The following morning, we loaded up the truck and headed back to La Hoya. We decided to return to the zone we had skied the day before and found equally good conditions. The sun also made an appearance, and we were treated to 360 degree views of the surrounding mountains. The wind continued to blow, making it difficult to stand up straight on the ridge lines. Dropping into the steep, south-east facing slopes, the snow was fast and somewhat powdery. A labyrinth of rock pinnacles and towering buttresses made for some very exciting skiing. For the remainder of the day we continued to lap the chair and found endless opportunities for shredding. The mountain scene at La Hoya is very distinct and much slower that what we are used too. It was nice to take our time and really enjoy the beauty of the grand landscape. After a full day of exploring, we returned to Esquel for a few local brews and some empanadas.
On Monday we said goodbye to Esquel and headed north to El Bolson. A torrent of wind, sleet and snow made the drive quite interesting. Arriving in El Bolson, we put our skins on our skis and headed up through the forest to a plateau at 1500 m/4900 ft. The skin up was very peaceful, and the fresh coat of 20 cm/8 in of snow filled our hearts with delight. It was a nice change from the wind slabs and sastrugi we had encountered previously. The top of the plateau was completely devoid of trees and the wind swept across the landscape like La Escoba de Dios, or The Broom of God. Cresting the horizon to the top of the plateau we stood in the shadows of massive glaciated peaks.
Our jaws dropped at the sight of these giant sentinels of snow and ice. Leaning into the wind, we snapped some photos and tried to suspend our disbelief long enough to prepare ourselves for the descent. Skiing off the plateau, the snow was quite wind-pressed near the top, but quickly changed over to fluffy powder once we reached the forest. It was sublime skiing through the perfectly spaced trees, and we could hardly contain our excitement. Reaching the bottom we opted to make another lap before heading back to San Carlos de Bariloche.
This ski tour of Northern Patagonia has been more than amazing and we have made a great deal of new friends and connections throughout the region. Our cultural experiences have been unbelievable and we can’t wait to return to this wonderful place next year. Chau for now, thanks for tuning in and sharing the adventure with us. We hope you can join us in the future for the trip of a lifetime.
Check out our Vimeo video interview of PatagoniaSkiTours.com Owner & Head Guide, Justin Lozier, from La Hoya ski area:
Want to see more pictures? Click here to view our Facebook photo album from Esquel & La Hoya, Click here to view our Facebook photo album from El Bolson.